This Iowa restaurant hides under a parking ramp

The Ottumwa gem Canteen Lunch in the Alley is a "made right" delight

If a modern-day architect was asked to design a restaurant building and location, they might be horrified (and amazed) to see Ottumwa’s Canteen Lunch in the Alley.

It’s a small and humble brick building downtown. The color can be described as a mustard yellow. Much of it sits underneath a parking ramp that was specifically build over it (best of both worlds, I imagine).

But step inside this rustic restaurant — which has been around for nearly a century — grab one of the barstools at the counter and order a filling loose meat sandwich. The experience is similar to a Maid-Rite, but I’m sure if you’re a diner who likes a quirky atmosphere, you won’t find this elsewhere.

Ottumwa’s Canteen Lunch in the Alley is partially covered by a parking ramp. (Photo by John Naughton.)

Loose meat sandwiches (crumbled, lightly seasoned ground beef) are an Iowa tradition. Muscatine butcher Fred Angell became known as the developer in the 1920s — a brand trademarked as Maid-Rite. As the Depression raged in the ‘20s and ‘30s, the inexpensive, tasty sandwiches became a popular staple.

Crumbled beef sandwiches go by many names in our state: Taverns, Charlie Boys at the Miles Inn in Sioux City, Tastees in Sioux City’s Tastee Inn & Out and of course, if you’re at the Canteen Lunch, you’re going to order a Canteen. Or two.

I’ll mention my story about Taylor’s Maid-Rite in Marshalltown, which offers one of Iowa’s top comfort foods, too.

You can also get a thick milkshake and a piece of homemade pie, if you have room in your belly.

A canteen sandwich, nestled in its bun and wrapped up in paper. The spoon, of course, is to scoop up the meaty morsels that migrate out of its shelter. (Photo by John Naughton.)

But how can a tiny restaurant like this — perhaps one visited by your grandparents — thrive in today’s economy?

It doesn’t have a drive-through window, a $5 meal package or even fries to go with it.

Part of it is the successful formula: Tradition, consistency and the delight of comfort food.