Louisiana food fest: King Cake and Emeril
New Orleans is one of America's best towns for dining
Sweets, treats and Emeril’s eats. There’s a lot to say for New Orleans’ food scene.
Few American cities have such a wonderful food scene. From humble po’ boy sandwiches to elegant restaurants, beignets and cafe au lait to Gulf seafood, it’s a rich experience.
There have been star chefs like Emeril Lagasse, who became famous through TV appearances (BAM!) to the late, great Paul Prudhomme (the man most associated with blackened seafood and meats) to the soul food queen Dooky Chase, there’s an extraordinary food culture.
Beautiful murals at Emeril Lagasse’s New Orleans restaurant, Meril. (Photo by John Naughton.)
I’m a frequent visitor to Louisiana, and I find that I can try a great variety of foods when I travel there. A trip south to escape the cold weather earlier this month brought a variety of experiences, some familiar and some new.
Let’s start with Lagasse’s restaurant, Meril. I’m not sure how often Emeril visits his restaurant, but there’s a great deal of thought and special touches that went into it. From the beautiful murals painted on exposed brick to the fancy takes on familiar dishes, it’s a delight.
A long bench for diners at Meril offers an opportunity to view the kitchen. At left, a cotton candy machine allows cooks to spin sugar. (Photo by John Naughton.)
When I called to make a reservation, I was offered a chance to sit at a bench (perhaps 35 feet long) where I could view the kitchen through expansive windows. You bet, I’ll take it.
It wasn’t like the reality TV shows where chefs are portrayed as angry overlords ready to scream at young, ambitious cooks. There was definitely a crowd, perhaps a dozen workers at one time, but the atmosphere was composed and professional. Cooks had specific jobs, including one who would make cotton candy right in the kitchen (a birthday treat for some guests).
I ordered the gumbo of the day, which was chicken and Andouille sausage. It was delicious, with a rich, dark brown roux.
The swordfish was a daily special at Meril. It was cooked wonderfully. (Photo by John Naughton.)
My entree was swordfish, served with a buttery sauce atop vegetables and delicate bitter greens. To my palate, the fish was perfectly cooked. Firm and yet tender enough that I could cut it with my fork.
Dessert was a remarkable fusion dish: King Cake (a traditional Mardi Gras treat) served in a tres leches style. It was sweet, rich and topped with a tiny baby figurine — a symbol of good luck.
A Kenner, Louisiana, Walmart offered a spectacular display of King Cakes. (Photo by John Naughton.)
That brings us to more about King Cake, a pastry with a flavor some compare to a cinnamon roll. The cake is popular through the Mardi Gras season, when people in Catholic-heavy Louisiana celebrate with food and drink before Ash Wednesday kicks off the Lenten season of sacrifice and humility.
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